So Many Dishes

The last few days have been really busy, and I’m behind on posting recipes. I need to correct that, because this one is too good not to share.

I’ve talked before about the prevalence of chicken and rice dishes in so many different cuisines. It is a classic combination. I like to compare it to the musical form of theme and variations. In a piece or movement organized this way, first you hear a simple musical theme, and then it repeats a number of times, but each subsequent time there are changes. If you want to listen to an example, search “Mozart twinkle variations” on YouTube to listen to what the composer did with Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star. That’s how the various versions of chicken and rice always strike me.

One of those variations can be a pilaf with chicken. Pilaf is essentially a rice dish, believed to have originated in Persia. What sets it apart is that the cooking process involves some technique so that the grains of rice don’t stick together. It’s an incredibly versatile dish in its own right. I make a very simple plain pilaf as a side dish, but you can add vegetables, herbs, of course, meats.

Pilaf techniques spread across the Middle East, into Asia, the Balkans, and elsewhere. And, of course, as it spread, the name changed. In India, it’s Pulao. In Iran, it’s called Polo. And in Uzbekistan, the name is Plov.

I wonder if there were any other people in South Florida who were eating a dish from Uzbekistan the other night. The recipe I used is very accessible, though. It’s from the Milk Street Cook What You Have book that Ken gave me for Christmas. True to its name, I had all but one of the ingredients in the fridge or cupboard. And I made a substitution for that one with something in the freezer, so it wasn’t a problem.

One thing I would not change is using the basmati rice that the recipe calls for. I love fragrant rice, but more often than not I’ll use jasmine rice, simply because there’s no need to go through the soaking and rinsing that basmati requires. Here, though, those steps are incorporated into the recipe, and simply using jasmine or regular long-grain rice might require changing the amount of liquid. Plus, the results were perfect. Why mess with success?

I used boneless chicken breast in place of the boneless thighs. It was okay, but I think the thighs would have been more moist. The recipe gives you the option of whole cumin seeds or ground cumin. I used the seeds, and we both liked the balance of the seasoning, and that slight nutty edge that whole cumin provides. I think ground cumin might have overwhelmed the dish. The recipe also suggested an optional garnish of pomegranate seeds or chopped fresh flat leaf parsley. Since I didn’t have either, I garnished with some chopped cilantro, and that’s what I’ll use when I make it again.

Plov with Chicken

• 1 cup basmati rice
• Kosher salt and ground black pepper
• 1 1/2 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil
• 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
• 2 medium carrots, peeled, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced on the diagonal
• 1 medium onion, sliced
• 2 teaspoons cumin seeds or ground cumin
• 6 medium garlic cloves, peeled
• 1/3 cup golden raisins or raisins or dried currants

In a medium bowl, combine the rice and 1 teaspoon salt. Add water to cover by 1 inch, then stir; set aside.

In a large pot over medium-high, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the chicken and cook, turning as needed, until browned all over, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the carrots, onion, cumin, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables start to soften, 3 to 5 minutes.

Add 2 cups water and bring to a simmer, scraping up the browned bits. Add the garlic, then reduce the heat to medium-low. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the carrots are tender, about 12 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the raisins.

Drain the rice in a fine mesh strainer, then rinse under cool running water and drain again. Sprinkle the rice in an even layer over the chicken mixture. Bring to a boil over medium-high, then cover, reduce to low, and cook without stirring until all of the water has been absorbed, 30 to 35 minutes.

Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, for 10 minutes. Using a fork, fluff the rice, then stir to incorporate the chicken mixture. Adjust seasoning as desired. Add an optional garnish of pomegranate seeds, chopped fresh flat leaf parsley, or chopped fresh cilantro. Serves 4.

Happy eating!