So Many Dishes

I have to admit, I’m not as creative as I could be when it comes to side dishes. For one thing, I tend to make a lot of one-dish meals that don’t really require a side. In other cases, I keep things simple: plain cooked carrots or beans, corn on the cob, a tossed salad.

When it comes to Indian cooking, however, I have a number of favorite side dishes that are a bit more inventive that really add to the meal. I pulled one of those recipes out a few days ago, when I made tandoori chicken. In addition to rice, I cooked a dish called butter smothered cabbage.

The name is completely deceiving. There is no butter involved, at least the way I make it. The original recipe comes from Julie Sahni’s Classic Indian Cooking, one of the definitive English-language Indian cookbooks. Her recipe uses ghee, the clarified butter that is prominently used in this cuisine. However, she says that a light vegetable oil is a perfectly acceptable substitute. I use canola oil in place of ghee.

I’ve been cooking this dish for years, and I’ve made other adjustments over time. For instance, I use canned tomatoes, rather than fresh, simply for convenience. The tolerance in our house for spiciness is low at the moment, so I didn’t include any chilies or red pepper, although I’ve added one or the other in the past. If I’m out of fresh cilantro, oh well, it’s fine without it. I would never, however, mess with the fresh ginger, unless it’s to add more. I absolutely love ginger!

Butter Smothered Cabbage

• 1 small green cabbage (less than 2 lbs)
• 2 tablespoons light vegetable oil or ghee
• 1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds, or 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/4 teaspoon turmeric
• 1 tablespoon (or more) chopped fresh ginger root
• 1 15-oz. can diced tomatoes, well drained
• 2 tablespoons chopped green chili or 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
• 1-2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh cilantro

Cut the cabbage into quarters, and core out the stem from each quarter. Shred the cabbage into 1/4-inch-thick shreds. Heat the oil over medium-high heat in a large pan. When the oil is hot, add the cumin. When the cumin turns dark brown (about 10-15 seconds), add the shredded cabbage. Sprinkle turmeric over the cabbage and sauté, turning and tossing rapidly until the cabbage is wilted, about 5 minutes.

Add ginger, tomatoes, and chili or red pepper, and continue cooking for an additional 5 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon salt and 1 cup of hot water. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook the cabbage, covered, until it is tender and the liquid is absorbed, about 30 minutes. Fold in cilantro and check for salt. This dish can be served immediately, but it won’t hurt if you make it a bit ahead of time and let it simmer on low heat. Just stir and check occasionally, to make sure it doesn’t burn. It can also be made several hours ahead and reheated before serving.

As always, happy eating!